BLOG - Moe's Valley
March 17th, 2016
WRITTEN BY: Kevin Landgren
There tend to be repetitions in life. Some bad, some good. Repetitions in your job can be mundane. Repetitions in a relationship can be frustrating. It’s easy to get weighed down by them as they slowly seem to become a construct of daily life. The key is not breaking the repetition but making it awesome. We find that the recurring process of climbing trips permeates into the pores of daily life, ingraining those that partake with a full dose of stoke.
This is why we pack the car the day before, so we can head out immediately after work on Friday. Leave the tent in the trunk because we’ll use it next weekend. Buy a barrel of Mountain House meals and year supply of Jet Boil fuel. Driving all night and setting up camp in the dark just to ensure we can climb as soon as the sun comes out.
Because we do this we get to experience the natural world in a better way.
Moe’s valley in southern Utah offers some of the best sandstone bouldering you could ask for. With a typical late night arrival, we crawled into the tent to get a few hours’ sleep before sun rose.
Woke up the following morning with a fine layer of frost over the desert landscape.
It took a little time to warm up and get going especially with a large group of us that made the trip down.
Right off the bat we could tell it was going to be an amazing trip. Everyone was laughing and getting excited for whatever project they were hoping to get.
Once the fingers were nice and warm we hit the boulders we came down for.
First on the list was Dustbowl.
A really fun boulder with some super long reaches for my hobbit arms. I was happy to tick this problem off the list after a number of beta runs.
The top out move was by far the most exciting.
Getting both feet off the boulder and hitting a full span crimp on the lip of the boulder brings the problem together nicely.
Dave Rosen has been working a new line in Moes the past few times we've come down. It's incredibly close to being sent.
Its long, It's strong
I'm certain that once we get Dave some more rope and endurance training he'll send the problem.
With a ton of friends down in the valley we got on some really fun problems. One of the crowd favorites was called the Refrigerator. Rightly named because it's like trying to climb up a big block of stone shaped like a giant fridge.
Blank on the face all you get is compression holds on the side of the "fridge"
After a lot of slapping and heel hooking there is a final throw to a bomber crimp for the top out.
A classically fun problem. Everyone wanted to try.
I had been eyeing a problem down in Moes for a couple years now and finally got the nerve to get on it.
They call it the Fin. Technical, thin, slopers and big moves at the top make it a really cool and beautiful boulder.
While I got nice and scared on the fin the rest of the crew was putting up some hard moves on Device Ignitor.
A really strong and beta intensive problem. At first I hated everything about it but as Lance showed us the beta it really comes in as a great problem.
All thanks to this guy and his pink shoes.
By the end of day one we were sore, bloodied, bruised and happy.
Back at camp we made dinner and built a fire.
Resting up for the next day of climbing.
The next day of climbing felt as if there had been a massive migration of climbers down from the Salt Lake area. Every crag in St. George was packed with people. We decided to head out west and find a new area. Ended up at Beaver Creek Dam.
It is an amazing place. With huge vertical limestone cliffs on one side of the canyon and then a massive overhung cave on the other side. You could climb here for weeks and always get on something new.
We warmed up on some friction slab routes for a couple hours but it was really cold in the shade so we made out way over to the cave.
The rock is super high quality and there are lots of routes.
We got on one called Finally Legal a shorter route that's nicely overhung with multiple crux moves throughout.
Really excited about the new area and can't wait to go back and get on more stuff.
Every time we go to Moes Valley it's an absolute riot. The friends were amazing the climbing was rad. As soon as we were driving home I already wanted to go back.